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La Maddalena looks like she will walk right off the wall and into the church. The frescoes in the gothic vaulted ceiling and the delicately carved altarpiece are nothing to scoff at, either. Nearby Sansepolcro was Piero della Francesca’s birthplace, and several of his works are found in the civic building.
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Roam the ramparts and the bastions for a glimpse of the architecture, and for the fabulous vantage point it gives you over the city and the surrounding countryside. The adjacent park, called Il Prato, is a favored spot for joggers and cyclists, and where kids play while their mothers chat. A white marble monument pays homage to Petrarch, who was from Arezzo. It’s a nice place for a stroll below the umbrella pines. Insider Bonus Tip: Walkers will enjoy the one-mile ribbon of country road that leads from the fortress to the historic San Fabiano winery, with a surprise. Ambling along a portion of the road is the Acquedotto Vasariano, a Renaissance-era rebuild of a Roman aqueduct, designed by Vasari. It terminates at the Piazza Grande and the fontana pubblica, with the last portion running underground through a tunnel to the fountain.
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Follow the Piero della Francesca trail and see how he revolutionized the art world. The Basilica of San Francesco houses Piero’s acclaimed masterpiece, The Legend of the True Cross. If you gaze at only one piece of artwork in Arezzo, it should be this one—a massive and detailed fresco cycle that took 20 years to complete. Next stop is the cathedral at the top of town where Piero’s depiction of Mary Magdalene shows off his mastery of light and shadow.
The Valdichiana DOC designation is affixed to whites and reds, and locals insist that their white vintage known as bianco vergine was exported to France in the early 1900s to make champagne. True or not, you can sample the sparkler and see how it stacks up against France’s famous frizzante. There are many wine bars around Arezzo, from simple to upscale. Or, even better, hit one of the wineries outside town to sample right at the source. I recommend the close-by Tenuta San Fabiano, just outside the city. Go Shopping Arezzo has a lively shopping scene, with boutiques and big-name shops lined up along Corso Italia, occupying the ground floor storefronts of the pastel palaces. There are always plenty of people milling about, and the shopping spills into the cross-street of Via Cavour, where you should go at least as far as Piazza San Francesco to enjoy a drink in the historic Caffe dei Costanti, the oldest in town.
You’ll recognize where many of the scenes in the Oscar-winning movie Life Is Beautiful were filmed. It is also the scene of some of Arezzo’s most beautiful buildings—Renaissance palazzi and the tall “tower-houses” that outline the space, along with the bulging apse of Santa Maria della Pieve with its striking columns. They all give you something to ponder while you sit below Vasari’s storied loggia and sip a glass of local wine, thinking how lucky you are to have discovered this gorgeous gem. Mangia It’s Italy, and “mangia” is the word, always…which means eat. Enjoy real Tuscan fare, the superb olive oil, and the local specialties while you’re here.
While you’re shopping, take a look at the jewelry shops, as goldsmiths have been working in Arezzo since the Etruscans created their ornate adornments. Arezzo is called la citta’ dell’oro (city of gold) and hosts a prestigious goldsmiths fair every year, OroArezzo. The weekly street market is held on Saturday mornings in Viale Giotto, in the newer part of town outside the centro storico. The stalls brim with fresh produce, cheese, housewares, clothing items, and shoes; there’s always something to capture your eye (and wallet).
Starting with the Etruscans, who flourished here as well as in nearby Cortona and Perugia, remains of their protective walls can be seen in Piazzetta San Niccolo. Up by the fortress are some traces of their temple, and the archeology museum contains plenty of artifacts to show their presence. The Romans arrived a couple centuries later and named the city Arretium, then built an amphitheater for their enjoyment. The outline is still clearly visible, and their pieces forged in bronze, iron, and ceramic along with sculptures are found in the adjacent museum, housed in a former monastery that was built right on a curve of the old amphitheater’s foundation.
Go horseback riding in the Tuscan hills, and mountain biking or ATV outings along the rustic roads. You can also take a boat ride to inferno, on the River Arno to the natural preserve Valle dell’Inferno e Bandella, said to have been so-named by Dante during a visit to the area. It’s not hellish; on the contrary, it’s a beautiful spot with a diverse aviary population and sections of low canyons. Explore Ancient Arezzo While the medieval lanes are thoroughly charming, the city actually dates to the 4th century BC, and has some monuments to prove it.
Like most of Tuscany, the food tends to be hearty and rather meat-heavy. In fact, the famed Fiorentina steak is made with Chianina beef, so-named for the Val di Chiana valley that Arezzo is part of. Menus include truffles and mushrooms and game meat, but try the local tortelli di patate (potato-stuffed ravioli), the thick strands of bringoli pasta with rich duck sauce, and the boozy gatto’ aretino cake steeped with alchermes liqueur. Whether you want a homey Tuscan trattoria or an upscale Michelin-star restaurant, you’ll eat well here in Arezzo.
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